Ebert's Greenhouse Village

BASIC PRUNING GUIDELINES

Pruning instructions are provided by your friendly Horticultural staff at Ebert’s Greenhouse Village.

PRUNING DECIDUOUS FLOWERING SHRUBS
How and when you prune deciduous flowering shrubs influences the size and quantity of blossoms, or whether they flower at all.  The key is to observe when it flowers, and whether blossoms develop on the older twigs or newly grown ones.

Spring flowering shrubs blossom on twigs that matured the year before.  These shrubs are pruned at the end of their flowering season, to encourage more abundant summer growth that will support next year’s crop of flowers.  Examples include; Bridalwreath, Forsythia, and Lilac.

Summer flowering shrubs blossom on new twigs grown in the spring.  These plants are pruned in winter while dormant, which encourages a flush of new stems in spring.  These in turn bear more abundant flowers in mid to late summer.  Examples include; Spirea, Potentilla, Itea, and Weigela.

Proper Pruning Cut

This type of pruning can revitalize your multi-stemmed, leggy, overgrown or diseased shrubs.  Cut back all stems to a height of 10". Examples are: Spirea and Potentilla.

RENEWAL PRUNING
This type of pruning gives younger stems more access to sunshine while controlling the plant’s height.  (Refer to Figure below)  The shrub’s older stems are removed to ground level.  On each of the older stems, place your loppers as low as possible and cut.  Remove as much of the older stems as possible without ruining the shrub’s natural shape.  On some shrubs, this type of pruning will rejuvenate the original stem color. 

DEADHEADING YOUR SHRUBS
This type of pruning controls the height of your shrub.  Select the limb you want to remove and cut as near to a side branch as possible. (Refer to Figure below).  Cut at the same angle as the limb. 

PRUNING YOUR HEDGES
Hedges should be pruned wider at the bottom than at the top to allow light to fall on the lower foliage.  This keeps the shrub actively growing and replaces older leaves.  When shearing, leave ½"-1" of the previous growth.  Leaving the previous growth keeps the plant healthy and allows it to continue growing. 

PRUNING YOUR TREES
When sawing off any limbs, first undercut the branch to be removed.  Undercuts should be made at least 6" from the trunk and about 1/3 the way through the limb.  This relieves the weight of the limb when making the final cut.  This also helps prevent peeling of the bark on the trunk.  Make your second cut on the top of the limb and 1" to 2" beyond the first cut.  The final cut is made between the branch collar (B) and the branch bark ridge (A).  (See Figure below)  Care must be taken not to cut into the branch collar or branch bark ridge.  Cutting into either of these points can allow disease and insects to enter your tree.

Timing: It is a priority to prune Oak, Honeylocust and Elm trees while dormant (Not April thru July).  Major pruning on other trees should be done November through March. Removal of damaged or diseased branches can be done any time of the year.

PRUNING YOUR TREES AT PLANTING TIME
After planting your tree, prune off any limbs that appear to be dead, damaged,  crossing or rubbing each other.  Some lower limbs should be removed to make it easier to mow underneath the tree.

 Other branches that should be removed:

- Eliminate double leader.

- Remove sprouts and suckers.

- Remove branches with a narrow crotch.

NEVER TOP YOUR TREES!

PRUNING TOOLS
Proper tools minimize injury to the plant.   These tools include hand pruner, lopping shears, pruning saw and pole saw.

The scissor-action hand pruner is used to remove branches up to ½" in diameter.  Lopping shears are used to prune branches over 1" diameter.  Use a pruning saw to cut limbs over 1" in diameter.  The pole saw makes cutting overhead limbs easier while standing on the ground.